Five of My Favorite Japanese Countryside Escapes
The busy streets and bright lights of Tokyo and Osaka are mesmerizing, no doubt, but there is so much more to Japan. Come along with me on a journey to the Japanese countryside !
Kamikochi and the Northern Alps
Starting off with a heavy hitter, in recent years Kamikochi and the greater Northern Alps have become exceedingly popular with tourists. In the spring time, right around cherry blossom season the pristine hiking trails of Kamikochi begin to reopen as the snow and ice which have blanketed the ground for the winter melts away. Kamikochi serves as the gateway to the southern end of the Japanese Northern Alps mountain range and offers absolutely stunning views of Mt. Hotaka, which standing at a height of 3,190m is the 3rd highest mountain in Japan.
For adventure seekers and adrenaline enthusiasts, base camp of Mt. Hotaka is a short 1hr hike from the entrance of Kamikochi. However, conquering Mt. Hotaka is just the beginning. For those chasing a true adventure, the Northern Alps Ridgeline extends north for 200 kilometers from the peak of Mt. Hotaka. This ridge-line offers some of the most spectacular hiking in the world. You can hike for days from mountain lodge to mountain lodge waking up and going to sleep above the clouds day after day. The most famous trek in this stretch being the Mt. Hotaka to Mt. Yarigatake route. This route sees you hike the ridge line from the summit of Mt. Hotaka to the summit of Mt. Yarigatake (3,180m, 5th tallest in Japan). The route typically requires four to five days to complete with the biggest challenge coming at about the half-way mark when hikers encounter the infamous Daikiretto pass; a vertigo inducing two kilometer stretch where the path becomes extremely narrow and drops away to reveal sheer cliffs on either side of the path.
However, Kamikochi also caters for those who prefer a more relaxed brand of outdoor adventure as well. From the entrance of Kamikochi you can hike for hours along relatively flat terrain following the Azusa river valley. The views offered here also do not disappoint as hikers are treated to panoramic views of the surrounding alpine peaks. In addition, there is a newly constructed boardwalk that meanders through the marshy swamp land at the base of Mt. Hotaka, offering hikers stunning views of the mountain and the surrounding river valley.
GETTING THERE:
Getting to Kamikochi can be a bit tricky as there is no direct train or private vehicle access. However, do not let this dissuade you from going.
-Traveling by car:
Kamikochi is a roughly four hour drive from Tokyo. However, private vehicles are not allowed to access the final stretch of road once you reach the nature preserve entrance (You can technically hike from this point, but it is longgg). Instead, what you need to do if driving is drive to either the Sawando parking area or Hirayu parking area and get a bus through the park to Kamikochi from there. Parking for the day at either parking area will run you 1000jpy. Additionally, for the bus from the parking area through the nature preserve you will need to pay 200jpy each way.
-Traveling by bus/train
There are no direct bus or train connections from either Tokyo or Osaka. Instead, you will first need to get a bus or a train to the nearby city of Matsumoto. From Tokyo to Matsumoto on the bus it will take about three and a half hours while the train will take about 2 and half hours. For both modes of transport you are looking at about thirty to fifty US dollars. Upon arriving in Mastumoto, you will need to change to another bus at the station to get to Kamikochi. There is a pre-bookable direct bus that runs a few times throughout the day as well as a more frequent indirect bus that will bring you to the Sawando parking area. If you take the indirect bus you will need to change busses again once you arrive at the Sawando parking area. As previously mentioned the Sawando parking area bus will take you the final stretch of the way through the nature preserve to Kamikochi.
Matsumoto
While Matsumoto is technically a city, in reality it has more of a small town feel to it. Nestled in the picturesque Nagano prefecture, Matsumoto is the perfect place to spend a few relaxing days before heading off the explore the nearby mountains. Unlike the gleaming modern metropolises of Tokyo and Osaka, Matsumoto feels like a time-capsule where it's streets still capture the essence of Showa-era Japan.
When visiting Matsumoto, you must visit the 400 year-old Matsumoto castle. The six-story wooden castle has been meticulously preserved and today you can explore the interior of the castle which has been converted to include a war museum. Here you can see various Sengoku-era weapons and armor on display. Beyond the castle, there are numerous temples and shrines scattered throughout the city you can visit.
I also recommend going to spend an afternoon or evening at the quaint Nawate Shopping Street. Here you can find various independently owned homemade crafts for sale as well as numerous quiet cafes and restaurants to spend some time relaxing in. Here I recommend going to 'Kobayashi Soba', 'Story House Cafe & Bar', 'Portugal Alentejana', 'Tipsy Coffee Place' and 'Toritomi'. I would also recommend eating a fresh taiyaki from one of the street stalls. Additionally, you should go to the nearby Nakamichi Street for some dinner and a chilled-out nightcap afterwards. I recommend trying; 'Itoya', 'Sakaba Ikkoku', 'Matsumoto Brewery Tap Room', 'Sidecar', 'Quatre Gats', and Gusuku.
GETTING THERE:
-Traveling by car: Matsumoto is very easy to reach by car as there a numerous major motorways that pass-through or nearby Matsumoto. Taking the highway from Tokyo will amount to a roughly three hour drive.
-Traveling by bus or train: Matsumoto is also quite accessible when traveling by public transport. From Tokyo to Matsumoto on the bus it will take about three and a half hours, while the train will take about 2 and half hours. For both modes of transport you are looking at about thirty to fifty US dollars.
The Izu Peninsula
My pitch about why the Izu Peninsula is a must visit destination to those who plan to visit Japan is that I would liken it to the Amalfi coast of Japan. Much like the world renowned Amalfi coast, the Izu peninsula boasts a jagged coast line of dramatic cliffs and mountains that are abruptly punctuated by the ocean below. However, unlike the famous stretch of the Italian coast, most of Izu is fairly quiet and is not overrun by hoards of tourists even during peak season (this is particularly true on the west side of the peninsula).
Despite being an island nation mainland Japan really is not known for it's beaches. The Izu Peninsula is an exception to this. Izu boasts some of the most stunning and secluded beaches and swimming holes not just in mainland Japan, but in all of Japan, including the islands to the south of the country. Some of these beaches you cannot miss are;
Shirihama Beach, undoubtedly the most popular beach on the peninsula. Situated on the eastern side of the Izu Peninsula the 800m long beach boasts pristine white sand and stunning blue water. Based off photos you would think this beach was in Okinawa not mainland Japan. Moreover, Shirihama Beach is only a stones throw away from the popular tourist town of Shimoda. Here you can find many restaurants and bars that create for a lively, but laidback atmosphere.
Moving to the western side of Izu, the Futo Coast is also an excellent destination to visit. In contrast to Shirihama beach, the Futo Coast is rocky and surrounded by rugged cliffs. However, what the two beaches do have in common is the pristine blue water. What further sets the Futo Coast apart are the many rocky islands jutting out from the sea just beyond the beach. With the largest of these islands being connected to the main beach by a narrow landbridge. This coupled with the surrounding cliffs creates for a spectacular destination to spend a day in the sun.
Finally, tucked away up in the northwest corner of the Izu Peninsula is Mihama Beach. This secluded beach is perhaps my favorite on the entire peninsula. While the sand here more closely resembles a shade of grey rather than pristine white. What Mihama beach does offer is some of the most stunning views of Mt. Fuji you will find anywhere in Japan. Cradled in a bay that is surrounded by mountains in nearly every direction, you will not be disappointed by the scenery here. What further compounds my love for Mihama Beach is that it is still fairly undiscovered, there is a tori gate right on the water and a temple directly off the beach. Yet, due to this not being a massive tourist hot spot you can wander through and explore this area all to yourself.
Other notable destination in Izu are: Yusuge Park, Senganmon Beach, Norihama Beach, Sehama Beach, Tsubasawa Beach, Tagosehama Beach, Cape Ose, Ito, Atami.
GETTING THERE:
The Izu peninsula is quite large and some of its key destinations are much easier to reach than others. Notably, the Eastern side of the peninsula is much more connected to public transit than the Western half of the Peninsula. Shirihama Beach and Shimoda are absolutely reachable via train. However, on the other hand if you wanted to go to Mihama Beach, or the Futo Coast renting a car would be the option for you.
-Traveling by Car:
Car travel is truly the best way to experience the Izu Peninsula. While some of Izu is indeed connected to the public transport system, there are other areas that are extremely rural and off the grid. However, this challenge adds to the charm of visiting the peninsula. My recommendation would be to take a few days and do a road trip around the entire peninsula. Some of the roads you will be driving on are up there with the most scenic in Japan. During this trip you will drive through winding mountain passes and high-up cliff top roads hanging over the ocean. In particular I would say you must drive the stretch of road from Tagosehama beach to Cape Ose, as you will also have stunning views of Mt. Fuji along the way. From Tokyo, it is about two and a half hours to the main tourist town of Shimoda. However, some of the more rural spots such as the Futo Coast and Mihama beach would be closer to four hours to reach directly from Tokyo.
-Travel by Train/Bus:
As mentioned before, public transport is either very limited or non existent to some areas of the Izu peninsula. However, if you want to stick to the main tourist hot-spot towns on the east coast of Izu, you will be able to do this fairly-easily on the train. From your hotel in central Tokyo you want to head to Shibuya station. Once you arrive at Shibuya station you should get on the Odoriko 55 limited express for Izukyu-Shimoda station. This is a direct train to Shimoda so you do not need to change trains. Once aboard it should take you about two hours and forty minutes to reach Shimoda. Other popular destinations such as Ito and Atami are also accessible on this line.
Nikko & Lake Chuzenji
If you are looking for somewhere that you can find both traditional Japanese culture and breathtaking nature, Nikko is the place for you to visit ! Part of the mountainous Tochigi prefecture there is no lack of roaring rivers, volcanic peaks, and picturesque lakes to be found here. For most, their visit to Nikko begins in the actual town of Nikko which is quite charming on its own right. In town you will find many arts and crafts shops, tea houses, cafes, and Japanese restaurants. You can also famously find the Nikko Toshogu shrine complex, which was created in the 17th century to honor Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who established the Tokugawa shogunate. The complex is absolutely massive and is one of the most impressive you will find across the entire country.
Once you finish exploring Nikko town or if you are just more of a nature person you must take the road up to lake Chuzenji. About an hour up the road (and the up should be emphasized here) you will reach lake Chuzenji. Just getting here is an adventure as the lake is situated atop a volcanic plateau, to reach the lake you will need to navigate a winding and extraordinarily scenic road to the top of the plateau. From there your initial views will be dominated by Mt. Nantai, which stands directly over the entrance to the lake and straddling the far side of the lake is yet another volcano, Mt. Nikko-Shirane, both of which can be climbed to the summit. I would recommend spending a few days around the area hiking and soaking in the many volcanic vistas that can be found here. You will also find a small town at the entrance of the lake as well. While the town itself is quite sleepy, just at the edge of town is where you can find the famous Kegon Falls. Standing at a height of 97 meters, Kegon Falls is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Japan and should not be missed.
GETTING THERE:
Not too far from central Tokyo, Nikko town is quite easy to reach via train. However, getting to Lake Chuzenji and its surrounding volcanos can prove to be more difficult if you do not have a car.
-Travel by car:
Nikko and its surrounding sights are quite easily reachable if you are traveling via a private car, with reaching Nikko town from central Tokyo taking about two hours. From there Lake Chuzenji is another hour further north and if you would like to hike Mt. Nikko-Shirane you are looking an additional twenty to thirty minutes on top of that.
-Travel by train:
Nikko town is connected via high-speed rail to Tokyo and thus an easy destination to reach for those looking for a weekend trip from the city. Getting to the Lake Chuzenji is a touch more tricky. To reach the lake from Nikko town there is a bus service available, which will cost about 2000 jpy and take about seventy minutes. However, operating times for this bus is a bit limited. Therefore it is recommended that if you are traveling via public transport and would like to visit Lake Chuzenji you should arrange accommodations next to the lake before heading there.
Mt. Takao
Technically still within the Tokyo prefecture Mt. Takao makes for the perfect low-stress Saturday escape from the hustle of the city. Situated just an hour and some change out of central Tokyo, Mt. Takao has long been a popular destination for Tokyo-ites looking to catch a breath of fresh air.
This is a perfect place to visit for visitors of all ages and fitness abilities. If you would like to get a nice hike in there is a mostly paved and meticulously maintained path you can take to reach the top of Mt. Takao. Conversely, if you are someone who prefers to sightsee without breaking a sweat there is a cable car that will take you to the top of the mountain for 700 jpy. Moreover, once you reach the summit of the mountain there is so much more you can do from there. Here you will find many street vendors selling delicious traditional Japanese snacks such as dango and taiyaki. On the topic of food, you absolutely cannot miss the beer garden just beside the summit cable car station. Here, for an hour and a half you can have all you can eat and drink buffet for just 5,000 jpy. You will find that the food on offer here is delicious and the all you can drink portion of your dinner bill does not just include beer, but also all you can drink wine and liquor as well. Aside from the eating and drinking there are also many temples and shrines as well as a monastery at the top of the mountain. These range from ornately decorated large complexes to small shrines that are hidden in the forest off the main path. Despite being a popular tourist destination for Tokyo residents, Mt. Takao still maintains a spiritual feel. This is especially true if you are able to take some time to wander off of the main paths.
GETTING THERE
Located within the greater Tokyo prefecture, Mt. Takao is extremely accessible for anybody visiting Tokyo. If you have the time it is a worthy addition to your Tokyo itinerary and serves as a good break from the city.
-Travel by Car:
If you are driving from central Tokyo, you can typically reach Mt. Takao in about 45 minutes to 1 hour. From Shinjuku you want to take the Chuo-Expressway to Hachioji. Once exiting the highway in Hachioji it is about 15 minutes further to the town at the base of Mt. Takao.
-Travel by Train:
Traveling to Mt. Takao by train from central Tokyo is easy and convenient. From Shinjuku station you want to look for the Keio Line Takaosanguchi Limited Express. Once aboard you can sit back and relax as this line does not require any changes. From Shinjuku simply take the train to the last stop of the line (Takaosonguchi Station) and you will have arrived at the base of Mt. Takao.
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